Adjoa Kittoe (Culinary, '21) – Food Writer & Private Chef

Fonio Grain: A Legacy of Sustainability and Flavor

abaker — Mon, 26 Feb 2024 20:21:11 +0000

Fonio Grain: A Legacy of Sustainability and Flavor abaker Mon, 02/26/2024 - 15:21 Unearthing its rich heritage February 28, 2024

By Adjoa Kittoe (Culinary, '21) – Food Writer & Private Chef

Deep within West Africa's agricultural mosaic lies fonio, a grain with a legacy as enduring as the lands from which it hails.

This ancient grain, cultivated for over 5,000 years, has been a cornerstone in the diets of countless generations. It's not just the resilience of fonio that captivates; it's its deep cultural significance, serving as a symbol of prosperity and survival in regions marred by environmental challenges.

As we delve into fonio's history, we uncover a narrative of human ingenuity and the unbreakable bond between land and its stewards.

Nutritional Might Meets Environmental Insight

Fonio's journey from an ancient staple to a modern superfood is underscored by its remarkable nutritional profile. Rich in essential amino acids, fiber and minerals, it's particularly suited for gluten-free and health-conscious diets. But fonio's value extends beyond the kitchen. Its cultivation is a testament to sustainable agriculture, with deep root systems that protect against soil erosion and promote soil health. As the world grapples with climate change, fonio stands out as a crop that not only feeds but also heals the earth, making it a pivotal player in the narrative of sustainable development.

Expanding on its environmental benefits, fonio's cultivation has a minimal carbon footprint compared to many other crops, requiring less water and no chemical fertilizers or pesticides to thrive. This makes fonio an exemplary model of sustainable agriculture, contributing positively to the fight against climate degradation. The cultivation of fonio supports biodiversity, as its growth conditions favor a variety of plant and animal species, further cementing its role as a crop that benefits not just humans but the entire ecosystem. Its role in combating desertification is particularly noteworthy, as fonio can grow in degraded soils, helping to reclaim land that would otherwise be lost to desert.

In recognition of its potential to revolutionize farming and nutrition, the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) celebrated 2023 as the Year of Millets, highlighting fonio among other millets for their resilience, nutritional values and role in food security and sustainable agriculture.

Fonio in the Culinary World

Fonio's subtle nutty flavor and versatile texture have made it a beloved ingredient among chefs and home cooks alike, eager to explore its culinary potential. From traditional West African dishes to innovative global cuisine, fonio's adaptability shines. It's a testament to the grain's ability to bridge cultures and tastes, introducing a piece of West African heritage to tables around the world. As we explore fonio's place in the culinary landscape, we're not just tasting a grain; we're experiencing a story of resilience, community and the ongoing journey of food innovation.

Brands like Yolélé have been instrumental in bringing fonio to the global market, championing its sustainable and nutritional benefits while supporting West African farmers. Founded by Senegalese Chef Pierre Thiam, Yolélé aims to introduce this ancient grain to a wider audience, showcasing its versatility and delicious flavor through a range of products and recipes.

A Recipe for Reflection: Yassa Chicken with Fonio

To celebrate fonio's culinary and cultural journey, we present a fusion recipe that marries the grain's rich heritage with flavors beloved across West Africa: Yassa Chicken with Fonio. This dish encapsulates the essence of celebration, resilience and the joy of sharing a meal that's both nourishing and meaningful. As we savor each bite, we're reminded of the paths that food can trace across continents and centuries, bringing us together in the most fundamental and profound ways.

Fonio's story is far from finished. As it garners attention on the global stage, it brings with it lessons of sustainability, nutrition and cultural reverence. This ancient grain, once the sustenance of empires, now stands as a beacon for the future of food, symbolizing hope, health and harmony with the earth.

Yassa Chicken with Fonio

For the Yassa Chicken:

2 lbs chicken thighs, bone-in and skin-on
4 large onions, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/4 cup olive oil, plus more for cooking
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
2 bay leaves
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup green olives, pitted

For the Fonio:

1 cup fonio, rinsed
2 cups water or chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil or butter

Marinate the Chicken: In a large bowl, whisk together lemon juice, Dijon mustard, minced garlic, salt and pepper. Gradually whisk in 1/4 cup olive oil to create an emulsion. Add the chicken thighs and sliced onions, making sure they are well coated with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight for the best flavor.
Cook the Chicken: Heat a large skillet or pan over medium-high heat and add a splash of olive oil. Remove the chicken from the marinade (keep the marinade) and sear until golden brown on both sides. Add the reserved marinade, onions, bay leaves, chicken broth and olives to the skillet. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat, cover and cook for about 25 minutes, or until the chicken is tender.
Prepare the Fonio: While the chicken is cooking, bring 2 cups of water or chicken broth to a boil in a saucepan. Add the fonio and salt, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 1-2 minutes. Turn off the heat and let it sit, covered, for about 5 minutes. Fluff the fonio with a fork and stir in a tablespoon of olive oil or butter.
Finalize the Dish: If the sauce with the chicken is too thin, remove the chicken pieces and keep them warm. Increase the heat under the skillet and cook the sauce until it thickens slightly. Adjust the seasoning with salt, pepper and more vinegar if needed.
Serve: Plate the cooked fonio on a serving dish, top with the yassa chicken and olives and pour over any remaining sauce from the skillet. Garnish with fresh parsley or lemon slices if desired.

Enjoy this flavorful and nutritious dish that brings together the rich culinary traditions of West Africa with the ancient grain of fonio.

Rice & Grains Food History Ingredient Exploration

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Celebrate Juneteenth with Cured Sumac Plum Cobbler

aday — Tue, 15 Jun 2021 23:59:45 +0000

Celebrate Juneteenth with Cured Sumac Plum Cobbler aday Tue, 06/15/2021 - 19:59 Food is essential for commemorating the emancipation of the enslaved. June 15, 2021

By Adjoa Kittoe (Culinary, '21) – Food Writer & Private Chef

ICE alum Adjoa Kittoe shares the story behind Juneteenth and her plum cobbler recipe to celebrate and reflect with red food.

Juneteenth is a day of celebration and reflection, commemorating American history, current events and the future. The amalgamation of “June” and “nineteenth,” recognizes when General Gordon Granger announced the following in Galveston, Texas, on June 19, 1865:

The people of Texas are informed that, in accordance with a proclamation from the Executive of the United States, all slaves are free. This involves an absolute equality of personal rights and rights of property between former masters and slaves, and the connection heretofore existing between them becomes that between employer and hired labor. The freedmen are advised to remain quietly at their present homes and work for wages. They are informed that they will not be allowed to collect at military posts and that they will not be supported in idleness either there or elsewhere.

This historic event is celebrated in 48 states as an official state holiday or observance, beginning with Texas in 1980, and New York City made it an official city holiday in 2020. This week, the Senate and House passed a bill to make Juneteenth a federal holiday, and President Biden signed it into law on June 17.

Many African Americans in the south celebrate with spiritual readings, prayer services, food, red soda water, dances, games, and inspirational messages and speeches. Music, clothing and food are essential for Juneteenth celebrations.

Red food is not purely coincidental, it's intentional, purposeful and meaningful. Red soda, watermelon, red lemonade and red velvet cake are some examples of food consumed during this time. In Africa, red is the color of transformation, regeneration, life, death, strength and spirituality. In West Africa, red also symbolizes sacrificial rites and bloodshed.

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For this Juneteenth, I'm celebrating with a plum cobbler, flavored with cured sumac and Ceylon cinnamon. The flavors are similar to a tart cherry pie, and the dessert is bright red like the Juneteenth and Pan-African flag.

Cured Sumac Plum Cobbler

Yields 8 servings

For the filling:

8 cups of fresh plums, pitted and sliced
2 tablespoons unsalted butter (or plant-based butter)
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground Ceylon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cured sumac
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1/4 to 1/3 cup granulated sugar, to taste
1 tablespoon pear brandy (optional)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons cornstarch + water to dissolve

For the biscuit topping:

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
2/3 cup heavy whipping cream (or plant-based cream)
1/3 tablespoon granulated sugar
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed and cold (or plant-based butter)
1 tablespoon coarse brown sugar, for topping

Preheat oven to 400 F.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the plums, butter, nutmeg, sumac, cinnamon, salt, brown sugar, granulated sugar, brandy, vanilla extract and corn-starch slurry. Make sure not to slice the plums too thin, or they will fall apart during the cooking process. Pour the mixture into a 10-inch cast-iron skillet.
In a medium mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt and granulated sugar.
Add the butter, and using a fork or pastry cutter, cut in the butter until the mixture resembles a coarse meal.
Add the cream and stir with a fork just until moistened. Gently press the mixture together using a spatula, forming a loose dough. Crumble the dough on top of the plum mixture. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of coarse brown sugar.
Bake until the top is golden brown and the filling is bubbling, about 30-35 minutes.
Let the cobbler cool for about 10-15 minutes to allow the juices to sit. Serve the plum cobbler warm or at room temperature, with whipped cream or creamy, frozen dessert. The cobbler topping will soften the longer it sits.

Make more fruit-based desserts in summer recreational classes or Pastry & Baking Arts.

Fruit Desserts Recipe Holidays

Yummy!

Submitted by Brandy on June 16, 2021 10:57am

As a non-cooker, I think I’ll be able to make this!

Can’t wait to show my husband.

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Exploring Ghanian Food with Okra Stew

aday — Thu, 25 Feb 2021 15:18:15 +0000

Exploring Ghanian Food with Okra Stew aday Thu, 02/25/2021 - 10:18 ICE alum Adjoa Kittoe shares the West African origins of one of her family's food traditions. February 25, 2021

By Adjoa Kittoe (Culinary, '21) – Food Writer & Private Chef

Private chef Adjoa Kittoe (Culinary, '21) shares the history and health benefits of okro, the West African word for okra, and the significance of the Ghanian okra stew she grew up with.

Tomato, onion, garlic - the Ghanaian mirepoix is the foundation of most, if not all, Ghanaian soups and stews. Similar to Nigerian okra stew, grains of Selim, cumin and cloves are the aromatics that bring life to our dishes. In this particular dish, nkruma froye (fetridetsi), or okro stew, we see the diasporic connections that refused to die off, regardless of how difficult circumstances were and are today.

Abelmoschus esculentus, okra or okro, as it is called in West African countries, have pods that are as mucilaginous (having a gluey consistency) as their history. From Nigeria to Louisiana, okra is a vegetable that adds texture and depth to a dish. The plant has grown on the African continent since 2,000 B.C. It’s migrated from Africa's Ethiopian borders to the Bantu-Kikongo regions to Kumasi in Ghana and even as far as India and Brazil. In the 21st century, people travel to New Orleans to try the nutty, toasty, intense flavor combinations in a traditional gumbo. The word gumbo even comes from the Kibundu word quingombo. No need for chemicals or additives; okra is a traditional and ancient thickener with nutritional value. In North America, okra is a symbol of resiliency, a reminder of the Maafa or African Holocaust.

Okra at the Oculus Greenmarket outside ICE's New York campus. Photo by Casey Feehan

Nkruma froye is the traditional name for one of the more famous stews in Ghana. It is created with scotch bonnet pepper, dried crayfish, finely chopped and blended okra, tomatoes, palm oil, and chopped onions and can be mixed with garden eggs (a type of eggplant found in Africa) and spinach. It starts with the Ghanaian mirepoix and then palm oil, ginger and peppers are added. The flavor can be enhanced with chicken bouillon cubes and dried shrimp seasoning. To create a more viscous stew, many aunts and mothers steam the okra with a preferred animal protein.

Similar to gumbo, okra stew can have all types of animal proteins: goat, chicken, fish, shellfish, cow and anything else you can think of. Okra stew can also be enjoyed as a vegetarian dish, without the use of dried shrimp and poultry stock cubes. I preferred to have the dish without meat during my college days when my mother would visit me and drop off a care package.

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Among the misconceptions about African food, and African culture in general, are whispers and banter describing eating with your hands as savage behavior that is not proper or civilized — yet the sensory experience of allowing draw soup (Nigerian okra soup) to fall between your fingertips is what adds to the journey of the dish. Our food is an experience and the foundation of many, what some would call, modern dishes today. I see pieces of my favorite childhood dishes in Indian, French and Italian restaurants.

Growing up, I did not eat much Ghanaian food, or so I thought. I craved the American diet of pizza and hamburgers. But living with immigrant parents, as an immigrant myself, we ate what our ancestors ate. Luckily for me, my cuisine was as exciting as a snow day. It brought warmth in cold days and smiles on bitter nights. At times, my mother would ask, “lasagna or okra stew?” I chose okra stew every time. While others complained about its slimy texture, it was a luxury for me. Okra stew was a specialty in my home, and during my visits to Ghana, I had the meal only on Sunday mornings. Although it is a typical dish, it is not something eaten daily, as the side dish, or swallow, is thick enough to put you to sleep.

The stew is generally accompanied by banku, fermented corn cooked and mashed into a consistency of dough. Similar to fufu, banku is a swallow that is used to “pull” the stew, like an edible utensil. The flavor is hard to describe with subtle sour notes. It is firm yet malleable, perfect for grabbing pieces of goat or fish from your soup or stews. The fermentation adds taste and antimicrobial properties. We have intention in our food curation. Okra is rich in vitamin A and C and may lower the risk of heart disease. It’s not common to find someone with heart disease in my native country. Sometimes, when I was feeling ill, I was offered okra stew as a remedy. As it’s 90% water, okra supplied me with the hydration I needed on days when I couldn’t take in much food. In North America, okra stews were eaten with rice, millet, hominy and sometimes corn mush. Similar to the Ghanaian preparation, the okra was boiled with tomatoes and onions and sometimes dark leafy greens.

Okra stew has traveled around the world, making pit stops in India, Brazil, the Caribbean and North America. It has brought richness to the Gulf Coast region and comfort to the West Coast of Africa. Although not eaten with a knife, fork or spoon, the anatomic utensils that we call hands bring intimacy to the meal.

Read more about specialty dish origins, and study global cuisine in Culinary Arts at ICE.

Food History Global Cuisine Alumni Stews

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