Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

How is Flour Made?

aday — Fri, 16 Jul 2021 13:57:49 +0000

How is Flour Made? aday Fri, 07/16/2021 - 09:57 Pastry Chef Rory Macdonald evaluates whether to mill his own flour. July 23, 2021

By Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

Rory Macdonald is the former chef of New York City's Patisserie Chanson and its subterranean Dessert Bar. He's known for molecular gastronomy and tableside presentation, with experience working for the Hakkasan Group and Gordon Ramsey after launching his career in Europe. Read more about Chef Rory.

For a recent project, I have been looking at buying a flour mill and milling flour, but before investing, I wanted to know what the real differences are between fresh milled and store or purveyor-purchased flour. How do you make flour? Is it worth the effort? Is it better for you and does it affect how you use the flour in a recipe?

Firstly, let's identify what flour is. It’s amazing to me how many people have no idea how to make flour or where it comes from.

Types of Wheat

There are six classes of wheat — within which are around 30,000 varieties.

Hard Red Winter
Hard Red Spring
Hard White Winter
Durum
Soft White Winter
Soft White Spring

The first four are most commonly used among bread bakers as the soft wheats have a lower proportion of protein and a higher proportion of starch than the hard varieties, which would be more applicable for pastries and other baked items, as they do not require the highly developed gluten structure that bread requires.

There are more than 54 million acres of wheat planted all over the United States. Adaptability allows the crop to be planted and cultivated in all different types of climate.

Milling Flour

Once the wheat has been harvested it goes through a process called sweating before it gets milled. This process takes six weeks and creates small metabolic changes in the wheat berries that will improve the quality of the milled grain. The process will typically reduce the moisture content from 17-18% to around 13-14% after that time.

The next step is to put the wheat through a form of quality control to remove any foreign bodies, stones, sticks, stray grains, etc., followed by tempering, whereby moisture is added to the grain in the form of chlorinated water. This helps with the separation of the grain and stops any bacterial or microbial growth. In the U.S., the length of tempering time is around six hours, mainly due to the need for mass production. In Europe, more traditional methods typically temper the wheat for 24–48 hours.

Once tempering is complete, the wheat berries are ready to be milled and then sifted or bolted. The more the grain is milled, the smaller the grain gets, the more flour is obtained through the sifting process. From 100 pounds of grain, the flour yield will be around 75% extraction. The leftover bran and germ is generally used for animal feed. Whole wheat flour, for example, is 100% extraction, hence the color and flaked with bran particles.

Types of Mills

Stone mills feature two large stones fixed to a platform. As the top stone turns it grinds the grain into pieces. The size of the grain is determined by how close the two stones are together. The milled flour is then sifted to separate the bran, wheat germ and white flour (endosperm). This is probably the oldest form of milling and the most reliable for maintaining the grains' nutritional integrity.
Hammer mills use small metal hammers that repeatedly strike the grain in a closed chamber, pulverizing or shattering it into tiny pieces. Theoretically, the hammer mill is capable of creating a much finer powder than stone or roller mills. The milled flour is then sifted to separate the bran, wheat germ and white flour.
Roller mills feature two revolving corrugated steel rollers, crushing the grain and separating the bran and the germ from the endosperm. The milled flour is then sifted to separate the bran, wheat germ and white flour. This is the system most favored by the milling industry and probably responsible for a majority of flour available on the market.

Regardless of which system is used, all mills reconstitute the flour by adding back a percentage of the bran and wheat germ to the white flour to create whole wheat flour. Because the milled bran and wheat germ particles are too large for most bakers to use, they’ll run these through the mill again to break them down into smaller particles perhaps further reducing the nutritional value of the flour. This means you may be buying whole wheat flour but not necessarily whole grain.

So what is the advantage of making your own flour? Is it worth the effort? I spoke with Simon Bowden, the head baker for Leaven & Co., an artisanal bakery that produces bread for chefs in New York. Simon mills different kinds of wheat for various types of bread and explained that the seven main things to consider:

Flavor/taste.
Nutrition.
Choice/Provenance
Storage.
Equipment.
Percentages.
Mixing and proofing notes.

Flavor

Of the many benefits of fresh milling your own wheat berries, flavor has to be No. 1 by far. After all, isn’t great flavor what we all want when all is said and done?

When I first milled wheat berries in a small Mockmill designed as an attachment for my stand mixer, I was completely blown away by the aromas that came from the flour. It was overwhelming. I had no idea that flour could smell like this. When you smell commercial whole wheat flour you usually get a nice, somewhat sweet, wheaty kind of smell, but the fresh milled is nutty, fruity, earthy, grassy, super fresh... It reminded me of being close to a freshly cut wheat field or freshly mown lawn, intoxicating and addictive. And those aromas only gain intensity as you hydrate the flour and mix your doughs.

Of course, this all translates directly to the overall taste or flavor, which in general is more complex, bolder, brighter, fresher and better than that of store-bought flour. Several people I know compare it to fresh grinding your own coffee beans. Once you smell the intense aromas of freshly ground coffee, let alone the flavor versus store-bought grinds, it's hard drink anything else. The same applies to the breads you can make using freshly milled flour.

To put this into context, I’m generally using anywhere from 5%-30% fresh-milled whole grain in my bread.

Flour Nutrition

I’m certainly not an expert on the nutritional values of grains and flour, and I’m sure there are a lot of studies and research available that dig deeply into this area (and ICE Director of Nutrition Celine Beitchman gets into grain here). In general, we do know that freshly milled flours retain more of their vitamins, minerals and oils than aged flour. When the wheat berries are broken open at the mill, the resulting flour begins to immediately oxidize, which causes the nutrients to slowly start degrading. The longer it’s exposed to oxygen, the more loss of nutrients, as well as minerals and oils.

Flour Storage

Perhaps another advantage of fresh milling whole raw berries is the ability to store them for much longer periods of time than aged flour, especially whole grain flour. If whole berries are stored properly in a cool dry and dark place, they can last almost indefinitely, and that means at least 1-2 years, even much longer. Whereas aged or store-bought flours have a much shorter shelf life, especially whole wheat flour, which is much more perishable since it still contains the bulk of the bran and germ. This is where most of the oils in whole wheat reside which is the primary reason for spoilage.

This is an example of a loaf made by Simon Bowden, using a percentage of freshly milled Warthog Wheat.

Choice and Provenance

Another huge advantage to making flour fresh is the ability to buy many different types of wheat and other grains directly from farmers or the many mills here in the U.S. To be honest, it’s something I never thought of or tried until I was buying some flour at a local farmers market. Next to the flours were some whole grains from the same local miller, Four Star Farms in Northfield, Massachusetts. They had Warthog Wheat and Zorro Wheat, which I’d never heard of but definitely wanted to try. These are hard red winter wheats with reasonably high protein content.

That was the incentive to purchase my first mill, an attachment for my stand mixer from Wolfgang Mock. It's fun and really easy to use for small batches (more on mills below). The smell and taste of the resulting bake of the Warthog was eye-opening to say the least. I’d never tasted anything quite like it: super fresh, earthy, nutty and slightly sweet. Then I tried the Zorro berries: again, really fresh, definitely nutty and a little sweeter than the Warthog. I was hooked.

I’ve tried many varieties since, from ancient grains to modern wheats, from many different farmers and mills. Glenn, Turkey Red, Red Fife, Redeemer, Sonora, Yecora Rojo, Rouge De Bordeaux to name a few. Plus some of the ancient grains, Einkorn, Emmer, Spelt and Khorasan. I’ve also fresh milled rye, corn, barley and oats. I know where they come from, how they were grown, when they were harvested, how they were stored and much more. This is information that’s invaluable when marketing and selling your freshly milled bread.

Here’s a brief list of some grain sources I’ve ordered from:

Grain Milling Equipment

There are many stone mills now available on the market, from the Mockmill attachment previously mentioned to a large or industrial-sized mill suitable for a local bakery that’s going to freshly mill a larger portion of flour. I’d definitely recommend the Mockmill attachment for stand mixers as a great place to start at home or even in a bakery for smaller batches for a cost of about $200. For a larger countertop mill, I’d suggest either the Mockmill 100, Mockmill 200 or the professional Mockmill 200, which range from $300 to $700. I’m currently using the 200 and can mill about 10 pounds of flour in about 20 minutes.

At a similar price range is another very good countertop mill: the Komo Magic Mill, which ranges from about $500 to $1,000 depending on size. We used this at San Francisco Baking Institute and could mill continuously for hours if needed. For a bigger production, the next step up could be to a much larger Meadows 8” mill, which will produce about 50 pounds per hour. These start at around $2,000. I haven’t used a Meadows, but a good friend of mine who mills a lot of flour highly recommends this model. Then there are New American Stone Mills, a stunning-looking, larger 26” mill that can produce about 80 pounds of very fine flour an hour. This one's perfect as the centerpiece of a bakery that specializes in milling a lot of its own flours and starts at around $15,000.

As another point of reference in terms of ease of use: I’ll fill the hopper of my Mockmill 200 with berries first thing in the morning while I’m scaling other ingredients for mixing. The flour will be a little warm from the grind so mono adjustments in water temperature might need to be made. You can also mill last thing at the end of the day while feeding levain, etc.

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Mixing and Proofing Flour

Just as we have to occasionally adjust to mixing and proofing different types of aged flours and different batches of aged flours, we have to pay equal attention if not more when using freshly milled flours. These aren’t drastic changes but definitely require some getting used to. In general, I find that there’s quite a bit more activity in the initial fermentation using fresh-milled flours versus aged flour, so keep an eye on your first proof and if needed, change FDT a degree or two to compensate for the extra activity. The same can also apply to overnight retarding, and keeping your FDT a little lower before retarding can help adjust the final proof time.

Percentages of Fresh-Milled Flour

As I mentioned above, I’m generally using up to about 30% fresh milled whole grain in my bread depending on what I’m making and what I’m looking for in terms of flavor, texture, crumb, etc. I’m mixing the fresh milled with aged flours like King Arthur Sir Galahad and King Arthur Sir Lancelot, which are generally very consistent overall just as milled aged flour should be. But even when I use a small percentage, around 5-7% in a baguette, I’ll notice a difference in overall flavor from the regular aged flour. At these ratios, the irregularities that one might expect using grains bought directly from a farmer and mailed on-site are fairly easy to manage and adjust to in terms of overall production.

I’ve been fortunate to have spent time with two bakers who are buying all their grain directly from local farmers, milling all their own grain, sifting their flours and then using them to make all their bread. They are very experienced bakers who are looking to make a very particular type of product for a certain kind of market and are willing to take on the difficulties of producing bread this way. From this limited observation, I’d say working with 100% freshly milled flours is a challenge for the most experienced bakers to say the least. The results when executed well can be extraordinary, but making flour is not for the faint-hearted. So if you’re tempted to step into that world, do so with caution.

Pursue artisan bread baking experience at our New York campus or professional training in Pastry & Baking Arts in NYC or LA.

^{REFERENCES:

Simon Bowden, SIMON’S BREADS

Adam Leonti, FLOUR LAB

Peter Rhinehart, BREAD REVOLUTION

Maurizio, THE PERFECT LOAF

Jeffrey Hamelman, BREAD

Roxana Jullapat, MOTHER GRAINS}

Ingredient Exploration Bread Baking Arts Bread Baking

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Cocoa: The Forgotten Ingredient

aday — Mon, 08 Feb 2021 17:27:39 +0000

Cocoa: The Forgotten Ingredient aday Mon, 02/08/2021 - 12:27 Explore the powder's production process, types and applications. February 12, 2021

By Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

Pastry Chef Rory Macdonald researches how the common yet often overshadowed baking ingredient is made and tests the aroma, color, texture and flavor of three types of cocoa powder in choux, puff pastry and laminated dough.

For years I have been passively using cocoa powder. Very rarely is cocoa powder the main ingredient in products I make so I rarely give it much thought. I always focus on the type of chocolate, the type of fruit or just the main flavor of the item, and cocoa powder usually plays a supporting role — until now.

Recently I was creating a tiramisu dish for a project in Hong Kong and after lots of recipe testing, I didn't like the type of cocoa I was using. It was too bitter for the dish, so I started to do some research on cocoa brands and realized I really knew nothing about how cocoa is made, where it comes from or the types available.

Cocoa Powder vs. Cacao Powder

Many of the processes involved with the production of cocoa powder are similar to the production of chocolate (couverture). Both originate from the cocoa bean, which is most commonly found throughout Africa and South America. As with couverture, there are many variants that depend on the beans and where they come from, so it makes sense that there are options and flavors when it comes to cocoa powder.

The cocoa beans are fermented and then dried at origin as is done for chocolate manufacturing. A winnower machine removes the shell and the nibs are alkalized for Dutch process cocoa powder. After roasting, the ground nibs (or cocoa mass) are pressed to extract cocoa butter. The remaining cocoa cake is then ground and cooled to create natural or Dutch unsweetened cocoa powder.

Chef Rory tests cocoa powder in puff pastry for a mille feuille with banana and cardamom caramel.

Dutch vs. Natural Cocoa Powder

Natural cocoa powder is exactly as it sounds. It’s directly from roasted cocoa beans and has not had anything added to it. It’s acidic and bitter with a very strong and concentrated chocolate flavor and almost no sweetness, very similar to 100% chocolate. This cocoa powder is often used for products made with baking soda, such as cookies or brownies, because the acidity reacts and creates a good rise. The color of this cocoa will always be a light chocolate brown.

Dutch cocoa powder has been processed with an alkaline solution to counter the natural acidity. The cocoa nibs are treated with either potassium or sodium bicarbonate. This method makes the flavor less acidic, milder and more chocolatey and creates a darker and more red color. The color of these cocoas can range from dark brown to deep red to jet black. The product made from the process of alkalization is called Dutch cocoa because it was invented in Holland sometime in the 19th century.

Types of Cocoa Powder

The Dutch brand deZaan, founded in 1911, is renowned for quality in the cocoa world. The company’s at the forefront of cocoa powder innovation and research and has multiple types on offer. The range runs from fruity natural to bitter cocoa, and from vibrant red to dark browns and black. Each type of cocoa has a different fat content, which affects the color, texture and taste. I began testing with three of the six types: True Dark, Crimson Red and Terra Rossa. I test with base pastry recipes and compare how each one fairs in terms of flavor, color and texture – is there one that ticks all the boxes or does each type have a technique or method that is best suited to it? I started testing with a laminated dough, puff pastry and choux pastry, which are the basis of so many classic desserts and pastries.

Laminated dough with Crimson Red cocoa powder

Chocolatine Research & Development

I first tested laminated dough with deZaan’s Terra Rossa cocoa powder, substituting for about 5% of the flour. The chocolatine came out very nicely, however, the color and flavor were really lost after baking. So I wanted to test a stronger flavor with deZaan’s Crimson Red, which is my favorite type of cocoa powder from this brand. The flavor, aroma and color — a very deep red — were all fantastic with this type, but there was so much moisture absorption the pastry was almost wet inside. It tasted very nice, but from a consumer point of view, it would seem raw even fully cooked.

Puff pastry with True Dark cocoa powder

Puff Pastry

For the puff pastry, I went with the True Dark flavor of cocoa powder. I wanted the color and flavor of a natural cocoa powder but needed to have less moisture absorption. There is so much butter in the dough, it has to be able to dry out after it’s risen or it will be very wet without flaky, crisp layers.

Testing types of cocoa powder with chocolatines

pH Level and Fat Content

The flavor, aroma and color are the most obvious differences with using different types of cocoa, but I wanted to know why the results in texture vary with each cocoa. Why does a Crimson Red Dutch powder have a much higher moisture retention than a natural powder, such as True Dark? I asked an expert: Wouter Stomph, head of product development and innovation at Olam’s Cocoa Innovation Center in Chicago. I wanted to know why, for example, my Crimson Red chocolatines were so wet inside, even though I used the same ratio as with the Terra Rossa.

Wouter explained that the more alkalized the powder, the more water absorption will happen. Crimson Red has a pH level of 8.0 while the Terra Rossa can have a pH as low as 7.2. That explains why the True Dark (a natural, non-alkalized powder with a pH level of 5.2 to 6) works so well with my puff pastry, as I really don’t want high water retention for a pastry with so much fat that I want cooked thoroughly. Knowing this, I sought a solution. Could the high pH powders be dried out or toasted in the oven before use?

Wouter said no, the powders have a moisture content of less than 5%, so toasting would have little effect and because of the high-fat content, could create lumps and lose the temper of the cocoa powder and the appearance after cooling. The best approach is to use a little less until the ratio is correct.

The fat content affects color, texture, and most importantly, taste. Higher alkalized powders with higher fat content have the better flavor for baked goods while the lower pH and fat of natural powders work best with dairy products such as ice cream.

Cocoa powder is a much more diverse and versatile product than I previously imagined. The pH and fat levels can make a huge difference in the application and flavor, and choosing natural or Dutch can be a huge variable for the end product. Where the beans come from and how they are processed, much like with chocolate couverture, determines the types of cocoa powder, opening up many more possibilities with this (previously) forgotten product.

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Ph levels in Cocoa powders

Submitted by Maura Lanzarone on February 23, 2021 11:51am

Chef McDonald—Thank you so much for this in-depth examination of Cocoa powders. I have given many culinary classes and I always try to include some mention of food science related to the topic. It is my belief that a better understanding of the science makes for a better cooking experience, and often a more healthful one too. I plan on saving this article and sharing it with my students in future classes utilizing Cocoa powder.

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Turmeric and Golden Raisin Bread

aday — Wed, 01 Apr 2020 16:41:49 +0000

Turmeric and Golden Raisin Bread aday Wed, 04/01/2020 - 12:41 Acclaimed pastry chef Rory Macdonald's sharing elevated activities with dough for everyone staying home. April 1, 2020

By Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

ICE chefs are home baking bread with the rest of the world, and we're sharing some of their signature recipes. Chef Rory adds vibrance and aroma to the perfect single-day bread for spicing up sandwiches.

I had a version of this bread on a recent trip to Paris. Turmeric is an ideal spice to use because it's strong and aromatic enough to taste, but doesn’t overpower everything. Turmeric also gives the bread a vibrant yellow color, which is a great surprise when you first tear into it. The golden raisins add some sweetness.

This bread doesn’t need a sourdough starter so it can be baked in a day. It's perfect for sandwiches, grilled cheese or maybe coronation chicken salad.

Turmeric and Golden Raisin Bread

460 grams all-purpose flour
460 grams bread flour
700 grams water
1 tablespoon Salt
2 teaspoons instant yeast
12 grams ground turmeric
175 grams golden raisins

Cover the raisins in boiling water and allow to steep for at least one hour to soften.
Gently warm a small frying pan, add the ground turmeric and toast for 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally until you can begin to smell the aroma. Set aside and allow to cool.
Combine the rest of the ingredients, apart from the raisins in a stand mixer with a bread hook attachment, mix on low speed for 2-3 minutes, and then increase speed to medium for an additional 3 minutes. Add the turmeric and golden raisins and mix for one additional minute until combined.
Remove attachment, cover bowl with plastic wrap and allow to proof somewhere warm for at least 2 hours. After one hour, remove the dough from the bowl and on a lightly floured surface, make one fold of the dough. Return to the bowl and allow to proof for the additional hour.
Once proofed place in a cast-iron skillet or shape into two smaller loaves. Allow to proof for an additional hour or until doubled in size.
Preheat oven to 470 F. Place a tray on the bottom of the oven.
When the oven is hot enough and the bread has proofed, place bread in oven on the middle rack. Immediately pour some water in the bottom tray to create steam. Shut door immediately after and bake for 25-30 minutes until deep golden brown color. Allow to cool completely before eating.

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Carrot and Apple Cookies for Kids

aday — Tue, 31 Mar 2020 18:36:16 +0000

Carrot and Apple Cookies for Kids aday Tue, 03/31/2020 - 14:36 When you've exhausted all of your family's go-to baking recipes, veteran pastry chef Rory Macdonald can relate and opts to educate. June 18, 2020

By Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

Being quarantined or sheltered in place with small children is as difficult as it is rewarding. Keeping them on as much of their normal schedule as possible while educating them, keeping them entertained without sitting them in front of the TV all day is a challenge to say the least. At least it’s only for … oh wait, nobody knows!

Facing this new challenge while trying to work from home or stressing about if there is a job waiting for you when this is all over, does not help. However, it’s important that these little people don’t feel your stress. For me, baking with my daughter ticks all the boxes: It’s educational, covering maths, science and reading, and most importantly, it should be fun!

Life Skills

Above all of this, baking is a vital life skill and something that is, in many cases, no longer part of school curriculum. So if kids don’t learn to cook and bake at home, where will they learn? Where will the cooks of the future come from? I spent so much of my childhood cooking with my grandmother and parents, developing a love for it, and I’m proud to say a lot of the items that I cooked when I was a kid, I still cook today.

Through all the negativity that’s happening globally lately, I am (trying) to view this time at home as an opportunity to teach my kids how to cook and where food comes from to create a better understanding and appreciation of food, as well as respect and understanding that they are lucky to have access as so many don’t. I’m educating them to have skills and knowledge they can use in the future.

Below are some suggestions, tips and recipes for cooking with kids at home – of course if you can get your hands on any flour!

These are only my suggestions, some may seem trivial, but it all helps to make the whole process less stressful and more fun, hopefully with minimal time cleaning up.

Plan ahead: Determine what equipment/ingredients you’ll need before you start, especially as it’s harder to pick up more items now.
Make space: Clear as much work space as possible so you have room, the more organized you are, the less you will have to clean.
Clean as you go: Empty your dishwasher or fill your sink with soapy water if you don’t have a dishwasher.
Understand your ingredients: You can explain where they come from and how they’re made to your child. The more they understand where food comes from, the more likely they will appreciate it (and eat their fruit and vegetables).

Healthier Cookies

If you are a parent and managed to get your hands on some flour before or after the panic buying, chances are you’ve already made your fair share of go-to cookies like sugar and chocolate chip. Here’s a new recipe to try.

Carrot, Apple and Coconut Cookies

Yields 12-15 cookies

1 1/2 cup whole wheat flour (or gluten-free flour)
1 cup grated apple
1 cup grated carrots
1 cup instant oats (or whole oats blitzed through a food processor)
1/2 cup coconut oil, melted
1 cup shredded coconut
1 1/2 cups golden raisins
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 cup honey

Preheat oven to 350 F.
Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl or in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment until it is well combined.
If mixture is very wet, add more flour to bring it together.
Bring together to a ball, cover with plastic wrap and allow to rest in fridge for at least 30 minutes.
Using an ice cream scoop portion batter onto a baking tray with a silicone mat or greaseproof paper, push down flat with your fingers, leaving enough space in between each one.
Bake for 20-22 minutes, remove from oven, allow to cool then transfer to a cooling rack.

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Recipes Step 1 - Preheat oven to 350 F; Step 2 - Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl or in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment until it is well combined; Step 3 - If mixture is very wet, add more flour to bring it together; Step 4 - Bring together to a ball, cover with plastic wrap and allow to rest in fridge for at least 30 minutes; Step 5 - Using an ice cream scoop portion batter onto a baking tray with a silicone mat or greaseproof paper, push down flat with your fingers, leaving enough space in between each one; Step 6 - Bake for 20-22 minutes, remove from oven, allow to cool then transfer to a cooling rack;

Classic Canelé: The History of the Fluted French Pastry

aday — Fri, 28 Feb 2020 15:28:25 +0000

Classic Canelé: The History of the Fluted French Pastry aday Fri, 02/28/2020 - 10:28 Pastry Chef Rory Macdonald explores the evolution of the custard pastries. February 28, 2020

By Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

Originally called cannelé Bordelaise, these small, baked, custard pastries are temperamental and time-consuming, requiring skill to make and so very worth it. In the U.S., these complicated yet ever so simple treats are a dying breed, which is a real shame because they are so satisfying and unique when prepared properly.

As with most classic French pastries, the canele is a food with a varied and diverse history depending on what you read, and like most great recipes and dishes from France, they have not changed for generations – the authentic, original recipes being guarded under lock and key. These are classically baked in fluted copper tins, which give the canelé pastry its signature shape.

The name canelé comes from the French word for “fluted.” According to cookbooks, the cannele Bordelaise could date back to anywhere between the 15th and 18th centuries, and most of the history books concur that the pastry originated in various convents around the winemaking regions of Bordeaux in Southern France. Winemakers used egg whites to clarify wine and would give the excess egg yolks to nuns to make food for poor children. With the addition of a few other ingredients, the canelé was born.

Like with most great pastry items, the canele recipe is relatively simple, with the technique and execution being key. Egg yolks, flour, butter, salt and milk are mixed together in a very specific order and left overnight so the flour can absorb the milk and hydrate before baking. The ratio of these ingredients is very similar to that of a basic crepe, but with a totally different execution — the results couldn’t be further apart. As Bordeaux is a port, this recipe natural evolved into having rum and vanilla added to it, key components adding distinct flavor profiles.

Many revolutions and battles happened within this time period, which would explain the lack of more precise history (as many books were destroyed), but it appears that these cakes have come and gone numerous times in the Bordeaux area, until around 1985 when a group of patissiers’ (88 to be exact) came together to protect and cement the recipe and standard of the cakes and make them the property of Bordeaux. These chefs took an oath to uphold this standard and use a secret recipe, which is kept in a vault and hopefully will be passed down to future generations. To confirm their authority, they dropped one “n” to create “canelé,” which has been seen around the globe.

To have countries like France protect their heritage and maintain their standards is so important in a world of food trends, fads and pure desperation to create something “new” and different, often regardless of authenticity, integrity or flavor. French food may not change but what French chefs do, they do perfectly.

The main variation among canelés can be the color from baking. Pastry chefs such as Pierre Herme have asserted that a canelé pastry should be black in order to get that bittersweet flavor and crunchy outside texture. In France, going that dark is totally acceptable and really at the discretion of the chef, however having lived in the U.S. for a long time, I don’t think this would work here. Customers will either think the pastry is burnt or a chocolate flavor. Either way, it has to be baked lighter for this market, which is actually my preference also.

There are many variables when making the mix, from the method of mixing the batter, to the length of time it rests, to what you use to grease the molds. Below are my suggestions, but there are many other variations I am sure produce the same, if not better results. However one non-variable is the copper tins.

Are they expensive? Yes.
Can you use a silicone mold? No.
That’s it.

Why? Copper is a great conductor of heat and allows the molds to get really hot, which helps create the crust and crispy shell. The silicone molds do not reach that heat, so they will always come out pale (with less flavor), soft and stodgy.

There are also many renditions of greasing the molds: nonstick spray, melted butter, clarified butter, beeswax, butter and beeswax, or “white oil” (a mix of oil and beeswax).

The most classic way is using beeswax and butter, which stops the batter from sticking and gives the canelé a nice gloss when it’s turned out. Using pure beeswax is expensive and can give the pastry a dull appearance.

Chef Rory's canele mixture and matcha canales

The mix has to rest. I like to leave for 48 hours, which gives a deeper, better flavor, allows the gluten to hydrate and results in a smoother texture.

To grease the molds, warm the copper tins slightly in the oven just so they are warm, not cold. Fill one mold to the top with the beeswax-butter mixture and then immediately pour out and leave to drip on a cooling rack. It’s really important to get as much excess out, especially at the bottom of the mold. If there is excess, you have what the French call white bottoms at the top of the canelé. Although this does not really affect the flavor, it would not be acceptable in many French patisseries.

Canelés should ideally be eaten an hour after coming out of the oven. Anything after that could be salvaged by flashing in a very hot oven for less than a minute.

As we are not in France, we are allowed to experiment with different flavors, either added to the mix or filled after baking. I have been experimenting at ICE, and some of my favorite flavors are matcha, coffee and earl grey. Some filled canelé taste great with dulce de leche and a lemon curd, but my favorite is still the classic vanilla.

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Pastry & Baking Arts

Elevate Cheesecake with Balsamic Glaze and Spun Sugar

aday — Wed, 08 Jan 2020 19:41:40 +0000

Elevate Cheesecake with Balsamic Glaze and Spun Sugar aday Wed, 01/08/2020 - 14:41 Pastry Chef Rory Macdonald turns a classic dessert into an elegant dish with Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. January 10, 2020

By Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

Balsamic Vinegar of Modena can melt in your mouth and add an element of surprise and delight to a pastry in the form of spun sugar.

Chef Rory Macdonald tops his mini cheesecakes with a glaze combining cherry puree and balsamic. The flavors marry beautifully and he adds a touch of creativity and ingenuity with his slinky-like spun sugar. Using a tube attachment on an electric screwdriver, he spins a balsamic-isomalt mixture into thin, golden cylinders to delicately top each cake.

Watch the video for Chef Rory's sweet technique and get two recipes below.

Cherry and Balsamic Glaze

12 sheeted gelatin
400 grams Morello cherry puree
100 grams Balsamic Vinegar of modena
120 grams sugar (1)
50 grams glucose
200 grams sugar (2)
8 grams pectin
6 grams citric acid
10 grams water

Boil puree, glucose and 120 grams sugar (1).
Whisk pectin and 200 grams sugar (2) together.
Slowly whisk in pectin and sugar mix so there are no lumps. Whisk for 1 minute.
Add citric acid and water.
Add bloomed gelatin sheets followed by balsamic, whisk until combined.
Cool slightly to 40 C and glaze.

Spun Sugar

Ingredients

200 grams isomalt
80 grams Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

Directions

Place the isomalt in a small saucepan and begin to melt (without water) over low heat. Avoid stirring if possible.
The isomalt will turn to liquid and begin to bubble, gradually bring up to 135 C.
Add the balsamic (beware it will bubble and react when added), stir with a heatproof spatula and continue to cook for 1 minute.
Do not overcook at this stage as the vinegar will burn and leave a bad aftertaste.
Remove from heat and allow to cool until the isomalt/vinegar mix has started to set.
Using a teaspoon, gradually drop this over the moving screwdriver to create the thin spiral. Allow to cool for around a minute before removing from the attachment.
Use immediately or store in an airtight container with silica gel to remove any moisture.

Learn more about Balsamic Vinegar of Modena and ICE's Pastry & Baking Arts program.

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Submitted by Mark on January 19, 2020 12:35pm

Nice concept.

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The Curious History of the Mince Pie

aday — Mon, 16 Dec 2019 21:01:31 +0000

The Curious History of the Mince Pie aday Mon, 12/16/2019 - 16:01 British chef Rory Macdonald shares his recipe for the traditional treat. December 18, 2019

By Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

A Christmas staple in the U.K., and my personal favorite, mince pies are as popular as ever in the U.S. and have always caused some confusion. I was frequently asked if they had meat in them whenever I sold mince pies in my patisserie in New York City. It’s a valid question because the recipe originally had various meat fats, including suet and even sheep’s tongue, but that’s not how it got its name.

The term “mince” actually comes from the Latin word “minutus” that means small and has no connotation with minced meat, which is a common misconception. The history of how mince pie originated is varied and no one can pinpoint its exact source. Some historians date it back to the birth of Christ, 12th-century crusades or King Henry V. This historic pie has many variations from around the world and evolved to what we make and consume today, which is pretty impressive and can’t be said about too many modern dishes.

Many believe the idea for the mince pie originated with Middle Eastern cuisine in the 12th century, when spices and fruit were often used in savory and sweet meat dishes. Before refrigeration, spices and sugars were used for preservation to slow down spoilage. It makes sense that the food was tried during the crusades and then brought back to Britain.

King Henry V had mince pies made as early as in 1413 for his coronation celebration on April 9. During this period it would have been made with various meats, game birds, boiled eggs and spices, which were very rare and extravagant ingredients of the time as this was a pie for celebration.

There are varied connections to Christmas history as well. Some suggest the ingredients represent the three wise men’s gifts while others deduce that the pies are made around Christmastime because of the specialized ingredients involved (spices and citrus fruits that were not local to the British Isles) indicating a special occasion. I like the idea that the mince pie is a culmination of a whole year’s harvest: summer’s grapes are dried into plump raisins, autumn orchard fruit is harvested, citrus is candied and any spare alcohol may be incorporated.

During the 17th-century prohibition era under the rule of Oliver Cromwell, the small pies were banned, as was everything associated with Christmas and the birth of Christ. But the traditions were promptly revived after his reign came to a sudden end.

“The Forme of Cury,” which is the oldest recorded English cookbook, actually calls the pies “tarts of flesh,” dramatically identifying the early ingredients: boiled pork, stewed poultry, boiled eggs, cheese, sugar, saffron, salt and other spices.

By the end of the Victorian era, the meat began to be more commonly dropped and replaced solely with fruit and spices. Sugar from cane in the West Indies had become more readily available and the public’s desire for sweet items grew.

Over the centuries, the historic pies have traveled all over world, ever popular in the U.K. and some parts of Europe, Australia and New Zealand. In the U.S., canned mincemeat filling became popular during the Prohibition era because they had alcohol content.

Beyond the departure from mutton and sheep’s tongue, not much has changed to modern mince pie recipes. I make my mince pie mix at the end of summer and feed it brandy weekly, however that process is not imperative. Mince pie can be made in two to three days. I like to use grapefruit juice and candy the peel for bitterness. I use brandy, but if you prefer whiskey or Scotch, either can be substituted. Fat is included for two reasons: to prevent the filling from drying out and (especially in the past) to slow spoilage. Beef suet is preferable for this, but vegetable shortening works fine.

Mince Pie

Yields 10-12 small pies

For the filling:

175 grams raisins
175 grams golden raisins
120 grams mixed candied peel, finely diced
10 tablespoons brandy
150 grams vegetable shortening or beef suet, shredded
140 grams dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground clove
1 Bramley apple
1 lemon
1 pink grapefruit

For the pastry:

350 grams all-purpose flour
250 grams salted butter
125 grams white sugar
2 large eggs

For the pastry, chop the cold butter into small cubes, place the flour into a large bowl, and using your hands, rub together flour and butter to create a fine, crumb-like texture.
Add the sugar and the beaten egg, and mix until it comes together to a ball (additional flour may be needed). Wrap in plastic wrap and allow to rest for at least one hour.
Peel and coarsely grate the Bramley Apple, place in large bowl.
Zest the peel of the pink grapefruit and squeeze out the juice. Add to the apple.
Add the rest of the ingredients and allow to marinade in the fridge for at least 2-3 days. If you are making this a few months out (which is ideal) add 1 tablespoon of brandy every 7-10 days and keep stored in the fridge. This is not imperative but will get a much deeper and more developed flavor the longer it has to mature.
Roll out the pastry, cut out 3 ½-inch discs and line a small muffin tin (2 1/2-inch diameter). Fill each cavity with the prepared mince pie filling to the top and cover with a 2 ½-inch pastry disc. Make a small incision to allow steam to release while cooking. Brush with egg wash from second egg.
Bake at 350 F for 10-12 minutes until the pastry has cooked and is a golden color. Allow to cool in the muffin tin and then turn out onto a cooling rack, dust with powdered sugar and serve.

Take a hands-on pie class at ICE's New York campus or pursue a career in Pastry & Baking Arts.

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Pastry & Baking Arts

Chef Rory Macdonald's No-Bake Cheesecake

aday — Wed, 11 Dec 2019 21:39:44 +0000

Chef Rory Macdonald's No-Bake Cheesecake aday Wed, 12/11/2019 - 16:39 The European-style recipe makes a light and dense dessert with a kick. December 11, 2019

By Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

Epicurious' 4 Levels series shows three versions of a classic dish followed by the science behind each. In this episode, acclaimed pastry chef Rory Macdonald elevates cheesecake with a savory crust and a triple-cream brie-style cheese from France.

Chef Rory adds texture to the dish with an oat biscuit rather than the traditional graham cracker crust, combines cream cheese and Brillat-Savarin cheese, and tops the pastry with fresh strawberry puree. He uses a piping bag and ring molds to plate the cake, which is finished with fresh strawberries and freshly cracked black pepper. He says the oat and black pepper biscuit provides a nice texture for the no-bake cake, which according to the food scientist, is more like a mousse than the typical cheesecake custard.

"This is a European-style cheesecake: It's set rather than baked, which makes it much less heavy," Chef Rory explains. "It's also made with a brie-style cheese, which is a much stronger flavor, so this cheesecake is not as sweet as normal. The strawberries and black pepper are the perfect matches to cut through the richness and give it a slight kick of heat."

Watch the video for more pro tips on cheesecake and get the complete recipe below.

Strawberry and Black Pepper No-Bake Cheesecake

200 grams Philadelphia cream cheese
300 grams Brillat-Savarin
500 grams cream
180 grams yolks
120 grams sugar
60 milliliters Frangelico
5 leaves gelatin
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
200 grams strawberry puree
200 grams fresh local strawberries

Cream the cheese and the cream together in a KitchenAid stand mixer with a beater.
Whisk together the eggs and sugar.
Add to cream cheese mix, ensure there are no lumps.
Soak gelatin in iced water, warm Frangelico, melt gelatin, add to mixture, pipe into molds.

Get the recipe for Chef Rory's oat biscuit in his cookbook, "BAKE," and learn more about pursuing a career in Pastry & Baking Arts at ICE.

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How to Chef-ify Pecan Pie

aday — Mon, 25 Nov 2019 16:42:08 +0000

How to Chef-ify Pecan Pie aday Mon, 11/25/2019 - 11:42 Chef Rory Macdonald shares the pro pecan pie recipe from his cookbook, "BAKE," incorporating candied orange and smoked salt. November 25, 2019

By Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

The ICE chef of Chanson Patisserie, Hakkasan and Gordon Ramsey fame shares his pro techniques for balanced and smoky Thanksgiving pie.

As a British guy living in the states it took me a few years to understand Thanksgiving, but now it’s one of my favorite holidays – if I’m not working!

Pumpkin and pecan pies are not very common in the UK so I had to try a lot of them to work out what they should really taste like. I enjoy pumpkin pies, however, I tend to taste too much fall spice, which overwhelms the pumpkin flavor. Similarly, many pecan pies that I have tried are so sweet, you can only have a small slice, which is a shame because the flavor is so good. Apple was my favorite pie for many years, but I converted to pecan after I altered some traditional recipes.

For my version, I add orange to cut through the richness and smoked salt to help balance the sweetness and give a slight smokiness, which really works well with the pecan flavor. I smoke my own salt to control the strength of the saltiness and how that affects the final dish. The idea for this recipe is to enhance the existing flavors and not overpower them with the taste of smoke. This can be done in larger batches and stored in airtight containers for future use, but over time it will lose some of its smokiness.

I use Maldon sea salt, the Breville smoking gun, hickory wood chips and a canning jar. I fill the bottom of the jar with the sea salt, add the smoke via the handheld smoking gun, smoke it for around 10 minutes and then remove the nozzle and seal the lid. I leave this for around an hour (longer is okay but will result in a stronger flavor) before use.

For an optional elevated garnish, peel an orange and remove any excess pith from the skin. Julienne it into fine strips, blanch in boiling water three times to remove some of the bitterness and then reheat gently in a simple syrup.

If you want to bring something a little different to the table this year, try this recipe from my new cookbook, "BAKE."

Pecan Pie with Orange and Smoked Salt

Yields 1 10-inch tart

75 grams unsalted butter
100 grams demerara sugar
3 large eggs
175 grams Tate & Lyle's Golden Syrup
175 grams maple syrup
1 dash vanilla extract
2 orange zest
8 grams Maldon sea salt
300 grams pecan halves

Preheat oven to 350 F.
Using a stand mixer with a beater attachment, beat together butter and brown sugar until soft and fluffy.
Swap beater attachment with whisk and scrape down sides with a rubber spatula. Whisking on a low speed, gradually stream in the eggs until fully incorporated.
Add both syrups, vanilla, orange zest and the smoked salt, whisking well, until combined. Stop the mixer, remove the bowl and using a wooden spoon, stir in the pecan halves.
Pour the pecan filling into a 10-inch pre-baked tart shell, place onto a baking sheet and bake on the middle shelf of the preheated oven for 30 minutes until just set.

See more Thanksgiving recipes from ICE chefs and take a hands-on, holiday cooking or baking class at our New York campus.

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How to Leave a Job in the Restaurant Industry

aday — Mon, 14 Oct 2019 17:12:22 +0000

How to Leave a Job in the Restaurant Industry aday Mon, 10/14/2019 - 13:12 Prominent pastry chef Rory Macdonald reminds young chefs that there is still a right way to quit. December 30, 2019

By Rory Macdonald — ICE Chef

It’s never easy to leave a job, whether it’s an environment you really hate or a dream job with a great team. When the time comes to move on, a tough conversation can be necessary.

Here’s how I recommend handling the situation to best develop your professional reputation and respect the team you work with.

Be Honest

My advice to anyone thinking about making a move is to always be honest. Whether you have a good or bad reason for leaving, when you give an honest reason, you can always leave with your head held high knowing you did the right thing. For me, and for many of the chefs I know, people who can do this will always leave on good terms. This is really important, as this is such a small industry, something you do early in your career (good or bad) could really affect your career later. You may not realize it now, but believe me, it’s a small world.

"When we’re looking at hiring, first I look to see who they worked for that I know. Everybody that knows anyone calls to find out if they should hire that person or not," Border Grill chef and restaurateur Susan Feniger told ICE students in April. "I look for longevity, how much they jumped around, and when I see short stints I want to know why."

Give Notice

There seems to be a trend now with younger chefs to give notice on the spot or maybe just a couple of days. This is a big no-no. Of course, there are different scenarios. If you really can’t handle your job, I’m not saying you have to stick it out and suffer. However, if you are leaving because you have another job, do the right thing: Give the right amount of notice, which can be negotiated with your manager. If your new job is pressuring you to start ASAP, respectfully say that you have to give notice, and if they don’t respect that, you may want to reconsider your new employment choice.

If I offer someone a job, and they say they could start tomorrow and would just leave their current job – I would not hire them. How can I not expect them to do the same to me a few months later?

Take responsibility for the job you are leaving, respect your current employer and team and have an understanding of what will happen after you leave. Will they be able to fill your position, or will your teammates have to cover and take on more work? Sure, if you are leaving, that’s not your problem, but how would you like it if the shoe was on the other foot? This goes back to doing the right thing and being honest.

How Much Notice?

There is not a set rule for this (unless contractually applied), but the general rule of thumb is a minimum of two weeks. If you can offer more, I recommend it so that your transition is seamless and your relationship is maintained on a positive note. As you move up the career ladder, that notice period will generally increase, and as you become more senior and take on more responsibility, it will take much more time to replace you.

For management positions, I suggest a minimum of three months. In many cases, when you are open and honest, your current chef or employer will help and assist you to find your next move, which is why, if you burn your bridges when you start your career, it will come back to haunt you one day. For example, all of my jobs have been recommendations from my previous employer. In such a small industry, this is really vital to get the jobs that might not be advertised, with the end goal that you no longer need to apply for jobs and people reach out to you directly. I can guarantee this won’t happen if you have just walked out of your last three jobs.

How Long Do You Stay at Each Job?

The industry has changed greatly over the last 10 years. When I was training in Europe, a minimum of one year was the standard. Some Michelin-starred restaurants expected two years. From an employer’s point of view, it has to be worthwhile to spend the time to train you. If you leave after three months and someone else has to be trained, it’s been a waste of time.

At that stage, the industry was much harder – you worked until the job was done, you couldn’t leave early for a dentist appointment or start late because you closed the night before. It was very unforgiving, with the mentality that if you didn’t like it, you could leave.

Things have changed, for the most part for the good. It’s important to have a happy staff however, my advice is to still always do the year minimum. You may not love it every shift, you may miss some birthdays or holidays, but always think of the big picture. Every position is a stepping stone to where you want to be. I always tell my team not to think in five-week or five-month mindsets. Think bigger – think about where you want to be in five years, and work out a path to get there. This may not be your dream job; maybe you’re not a sous chef yet, but this job and maybe this chef can open the door to where you want to be or the next step you need to take.

Take your time, the race is long and age is just a number – you may not have three Michelin stars when you are 22, but it’s okay – when you get them (or achieve whichever goal you have), they will mean so much more because you worked your way up to it.

Be Selective

It’s really important, especially when you’re at the start of your career, to choose the right job for you. Just because a restaurant is famous or is trending at the time, doesn’t mean it will be the best fit for you. You need to be in an environment where your training is just as important as the restaurant – no restaurant can run without its team. Choose carefully, maybe it’s not the most famous place but maybe it’s an environment where you will learn a lot with people who care about your future. Stay focused on your future goals.

“I always staged in so many places because I think it’s so important to find the right fit,” ICE alum and Majordōmo chef de cuisine Marc Johnson (Culinary, ‘04) reflected in April. "I have things I want to learn and do personally as a cook, and I think that I can find those within the cooking walls of Momofuku, so I’m pretty happy where I’m at.”

Do Not Chase Money

Everyone wants money. However, think big picture, and get yourself to a place where people are approaching you and you can tell them how much compensation you need, rather than vice versa. Moving jobs every three months for an additional dollar will not help your career. In fact, you will be going backwards. Everyone has bills and rent to pay, but again, be honest with your employer. If you have a great job where you are learning and growing, but you are struggling to pay the bills, speak with them. Maybe you can pick up some extra shifts, get a raise or they can help you secure a part-time job. Moving around frequently just for money means short-term gains for long-term losses.

Every situation is different so it’s impossible to have one rule for everything. If you can be honest and give as much notice as possible, the end result will always be a positive one and that will only help your future plans.

Learn more about navigating culinary careers in ICE's diploma programs.

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