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Winter squash is abundant this time of year, and Pastry & Baking Arts Chef-Instructor Keiry Palma navigated the pumpkin and gourd displays with ease during a recent visit to the Union Square greenmarket in New York City.

Chef Kiery was looking for the perfect pumpkin to use in her recipe for Pumpkin Cinnamon Swirl Bread. While searching, she shared her insights on the different types of pumpkins and squashes available at the market.

Types of Pumpkins and Squashes

• Sugar Pie Pumpkin: A classic pick for pumpkin pie. Chef Keiry recommends these pumpkins for baking because they are sweet and dense. When picking one, look for a dry stem – the drier it is, the sweeter and riper the pumpkin will be, making it one of the best pumpkins for baking. 
• Kuri Squash: This squash looks like a pumpkin and has a delicate flavor different from the sugar pie. It’s also sweet and dense, making it perfect for purees. 
• Acorn Squash: Not as fibrous as other pumpkins, Chef Keiry recommends cutting this squash in half and roasting it to make a puree. When roasted, it can also be eaten in slices or pieces with the skin on.
• Butternut Squash: This classic squash works in both savory and sweet applications and is especially delicious when roasted. It's often one of the first fall squashes to grace the Greenmarket, as its peak season begins in August.
• Delicata Squash: Chef Keiry prefers savory applications for this squash, like grilling and roasting, because it’s not as sweet as other varieties.
• Spaghetti Squash (not pictured): This squash is fibrous and stringy when roasted (hence its name), so Chef Keiry doesn’t recommend it for purees or baking.
• Jack O’ Lanterns: Also known as carving pumpkins, these are better for decor because they have a bitter taste, Chef Keiry says. If you want to eat them, taste the flesh to make sure it’s on the sweeter side, and then roast. You’ll want to strain the puree overnight because these pumpkins have a high water content; the more liquid there is, the softer the puree will be, which is hard for baking but good for soup!

Best Pumpkin for Baking

Though it depends on the recipe, the sugar pie pumpkin is often one of the best pumpkins for baking due to its dense texture and sweet taste.

Chef Keiry knows this well and chose to use a sugar pie pumpkin in her recipe. She roasted the pumpkin with cinnamon and vanilla extract and then later blended it into a puree.

“The texture of your pumpkin puree will depend on the type of pumpkin you use,” Chef Keiry says. “Smaller, denser pumpkins like sugar pie and butternut squash are ideal for this recipe. If you're using a different type of pumpkin, you may need to adjust the liquid in your recipe. Some pumpkins may have more moisture based on their size and ripeness.”

Chef Keiry’s take on pumpkin bread has a beautiful cinnamon swirl layered throughout the loaf. The maple pecan streusel topping adds a delightful texture and takes this treat to the next level and making it a perfect Thanksgiving dessert.

Here's how to make it at home.

Recipe

Pumpkin Cinnamon Swirl Bread

Yields: 1 loaf

Ingredients

Roasting the Pumpkin:

• 1 sugar pie pumpkin
• Canola oil, as needed
• Cinnamon, as needed
• Vanilla extract, as needed

For the Streusel: 

• 30 g butter
• 30 g flour 
• 21 g oats
• 17 g dark brown sugar
• 24 g maple syrup
• 45 g pecans

For the Swirl:

• 55 g dark brown sugar
• 1 ½ teaspoons cinnamon 
• ½ teaspoon ground clove
• ¼ teaspoon ground ginger
• ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

For the Pumpkin Batter:

• 330 g pumpkin puree
• 110 g dark brown sugar 
• 100 g granulated sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 75 g canola or vegetable oil
• 260 g all-purpose flour
• ¾ teaspoon baking soda
• ¾ teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 ½ teaspoons cinnamon 
• 1 teaspoon turmeric
• ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
• 7 g cornstarch
• 40 g milk

Directions

Roast the Pumpkin:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F and line a sheet tray with foil.
2. Cut the pumpkin in half, and scoop out the fibrous strands and seeds.
3. Add canola oil, cinnamon, and vanilla extract to the inside of the pumpkin and spread evenly. The ingredients should form a paste-like consistency.
4. Bake for 40 minutes or until tender and a knife can be inserted without hesitation. Allow to cool.
5. Peel off the skin and puree the flesh in a blender until smooth, reserve until needed. Additional canola oil may be needed to smooth out the puree.

Make the Streusel: 

1. Roughly chop 33 grams of pecans, reserving 12 grams of whole pecans.
2. Chop the butter and the flour together until small pieces are formed and place in a bowl.
3. Mix in the remaining ingredients, and chopped pecans, until small dough pieces form. Refrigerate until needed.

Make the Swirl:

1. Combine all ingredients and reserve until needed.

Make the Pumpkin Bread:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of a 9x5 inch loaf pan with parchment and lightly grease the sides.
2. Combine the sugars in a medium bowl until there are no clumps.
3. Add the pumpkin puree, oil, eggs, and mix.
4. In a separate bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices together. 
5. Mix the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until mostly combined.
6. Add in the milk, keeping an eye on the consistency of the batter – you may not need it all (see Chef's Notes). Mix until just combined, do not over-mix or the bread will be tough.
7. Divide the batter into four separate bowls.
8. Pour one portion of the batter into the loaf pan. Sprinkle one-third of the spice swirl on top, and repeat this process two more times. 
9. Add the final portion of the batter, there should be a total of four layers of pumpkin batter and three layers of cinnamon swirl.
10. Using a paring knife, swirl the batter in the pan diagonally.
11. Place the streusel on top, leaving some spaces open for the whole pecans reserved prior.
12. Bake at 350°F for 30 minutes. 
13. Take the bread out of the oven, cover with foil, and bake for another 45-60 minutes at 325°F or until a cake taster or knife comes out clean after inserting.
14. Cool completely before slicing.

Chef’s Notes:

• The streusel is a delicious addition, but it's entirely optional. Feel free to omit it for a simpler, softer bread.
• Wash and reserve the pumpkin seeds for roasting with a bit of salt and canola oil. 
• The batter should be thick but pourable. Aim for a consistency that allows it to form a loose figure-eight when dropped from a spoon. If your batter is too runny, adding a bit more flour can help thicken it up.
• Since fresh pumpkin and squash have a more yellow color than orange, turmeric is added to the batter as natural food coloring, but it can be omitted. 
• If you would like to substitute in canned pumpkin puree, just add an additional 80 grams of milk to the recipe. The canned puree has less moisture than fresh pumpkin puree.

More fall recipes to inspire your seasonal baking:

• Chef Jügen's Pumpkin Blondies
• Chef Joshua's Pumpkin Spice Butter
• Chef Nin's Pumpkin Thai Sticky Rice